Onward’s Cruise Journal 2014
Chesapeake & New England Cruise

Updated: 2 August 2014

July 2014

1 July 14; Tuesday; Greenwich Cove / EGYC

  • Peg and I headed off in late morning for New Bedford where the Corinthians were hosting a Gam at Patty Jason's lovely waterfront home just inside the hurricane barrier. First we parked near the Whaling Museum and met Miles an Maureen Cherkasky at a pub for lunch before we all went over to visit the Charles W Morgan. The Morgan was visiting from Mystic Seaport where it had just finished being restored so it could make visits to local ports.
  • Usually the paths of the Ariels and Onward intersect many times each year along the East Coast and in the Bahamas. For some reason, this year our roamings were offset and we were unable to connect since October in Annapolis. It was great to catch up with Miles and Laureen and to have them meet Peg. The pub had a great beer selection on draft and I was ready to start sampling. I was surprised to be joined at the pub by Bob Osborne, another Corinthian friend, who had actually suggested to Patty that a Gam might be a good idea.
  • Bob told me a good story about having done a good bit of research on Over Yonder Cay in the Exumas and writing about it in his blog. He was then surprised to get a personal invitation from the owner to visit the island where he was treated royally. Neat!
  • The kitchen was having problems and as a result was delayed so long we had to leave before eating. This was a disappointment but the beer I'd enjoyed ended up being free.
  • The Corinthians were to have a group tour of the Morgan at 1430. However the large turnout of "regular folks" put paid to that so we just joined the long cue that the folks from the Morgan very efficiently moved through the vessel. I had been aboard her in the past while she was being restored at the Mystic Seaport Museum. But still I was a bit amazed to see the "traveling helm" with the wheel mounted on the tiller and moving back and forth with it. Not sure why they did this. Perhaps to have the benefit of both methods of steering? The other strange thing was that the helmsman had no forward view at all -- it being completely blocked by deckhouses and try works. The poor steersman had to just watch the compass and sails while lookouts were posted in harbors. The Morgan looked very fine with all its sails (nice and clean unlike soot-stained as they were when whaling) and running rigging. Ashore after the tour, we found a life-sized inflatable replica of a sperm whale bobbing about -- the perfect opportunity for another "Crazy Grandpa" video for Elena and Kian.
  • Miles, Laureen, and Bob headed back via their dinghies and Peg and I drove over to Patty's house via a tour of the hurricane barrier and beach parks nearby. Patty's charming home clearly belongs to a boat owner as evidenced by its warm and well-appointed interior. Patty related that she had put into New Bedford / Fairhaven harbor because her boat needed some repairs at the Fairhaven Shipyard. While there she found a waterfront home for sale and that was it. We enjoyed the BYO cocktail party and catered buffet while catching up with many Corinthian friends.

2 July 14; Wednesday; Greenwich Cove / EGYC
  • Peg and I spent the morning cleaning up the boat. In early afternoon, two of my closest fraternity brothers, Jim Moretti and Richard Garzilli and their wives came aboard for early cocktails, to meet Peg and to catch up with our lives. We had a grand time aboard before taking the launch ashore and then walking to dinner at Finns. The former "Lobstermania" had been nicely updated since my previous visit > 5 years ago. We had a very tasty and pleasant dinner together culminating a very pleasant day.

3 July 14; Thursday; Greenwich Cove / EGYC
  • Today was a somewhat lazy day partly due to it being hazy and hot. We Ventured in with the laundry to use the EGYC facility. Peg read and tended the machines in the air-conditioned building and I rigged new planing fins on the outboard to replace the set that got broken in Charleston last November.

4 July 14; Friday; Greenwich Cove / EGYC
  • The effects of Arthur were due to begin at ~1600 however the morning which started heavily overcast then became patly sunny then again the rain squalls looked imminent. About 1100 I got energized and decided to go in for a pump out, water refill, and refueling as there was no activity in the harbor. I'd dropped the mooring and started toward the pier when I realized that I hadn't rerigged the lift straps on the dinghy after I took off the stern set to reposition them. So, I ended up dragging the dinghy behind using the hold-to lines that keep it athwart the stern. Boy does this create a lot of drag. It was an easy task to move on to Pier A for the pump out and then on to Pier B for fuel. It was a bit ironic that the Norton's pump out boat had to move around me. It took 35, 7, and 52 gallons to fill the tanks so I'd used 94 gal since departing Annapolis Landing Marina at the start of the C470 Rendezvous.
  • In preparation for the storm, I had to get in the dingy to attach the mooring bridle to the heavy eye on the mooring as a safety backup. That done, I raised the dingy on the arch.
  • After checking that all hatches were dogged and Onward was closed up well, Peg and I sat down to read as the heavy rains moved in. The highest winds we saw were about 30 kts. All in all it was a peaceful afternoon and evening as Arthur politely moved further off shore.

5 July 14; Saturday; Greenwich Cove / EGYC
  • I decided to try to reattach the turning block with cam cleat I had been using on the stern end of the dingy falls. The cam was oriented the opposites way from what was needed so that the line would engage it when I was using the electric winch to raise the dingy. I figured out a way to reverse the block by using the unused becket to attach the block to the stern rail. I kept saying to myself that I should tie a safety line to the block while I worked -- but of course I didn't heed this good self-advise. I had decided to give up the attempt because of the need to add a small shackle to overcome a clearance problem. At this point, the block slipped from my hand bounced twice on the seat and then overboard. A very angry Joe went below and got ready to go ashore for the family cookout.
  • Kathy and Andy picked us up and we headed to Dave's so I could pick up the odds and ends -- this has become a bit of a ritual and my job is to get whatever the hosts haven't got any other family member bringing. That done we headed for the beautiful home of Linda and Leo. Both Leo and Linda come from large families so there were many new people for Peg to me. The food was continuous and plentiful and delicious. We had a great time catching up with many family members and friends. This years there was a bit of sadness as a couple of my nieces and nephews were dealing with mid-life marital problems for which I could only try to be supportive.

6 July 14; Sunday; Greenwich Cove to Cuttyhunk
  • We were ashore by 0715 where Katy & Andy greeted us and whisked us off to Mass. Over the years since my retirement and the long summer visits to RI to spend time with my sister, we have developed a few rituals. This one of early Sunday Mass with them and then off to Paneras for breakfast with them and a number of their friends as well as other family members who often drop in has become one of my favorites. It is simply the uncomplicated spending of time with family and just enjoying each other. For a while it looked like we might not get to do this this year and I realized that I had begun to mourn the absence of it.
  • Peg joined right in and she got to have breakfast with Rob & Liz Tedder, friends of Kathy and Andy. Rob is VP Manufacturing for New England Ropes. Of course, our conversation turned to ropes and he told me one of their biggest areas of growth has become the application of their Dynema high-strength line to new areas suit as lifelines and electric winches where it replaces SS cable. I told him this sounded like a good idea for a Tech Note.
  • Kathy and Andy returned us to EGYC where we Ventured back to Onward and prepared to get underway. We dropped the mooring at 1130. We motorsailed in the SW wind down the E passage so Peg could get a glimpse at Newport and Jamestown. It was a busy afternoon and I had to be on my toes to avoid the large number of boats tacking about in the brisk wind. One of these as the 12-meter, US-16.
  • At Castle Hill light, we passed port to port with Meteor, a 160' gaff-rigged schooner yacht. Gorgeous. We could clearly see the captain, crew and passengers enjoying the sunny afternoon and brisk SW wind to broad reach up the East Passage. Peg got our her iPad to take some photos. After it had passed us, I was focused on setting course for the waypoint where Onward would turn E toward Cuttyhunk. I heard Peg gasp and turned to see an amazing sight. Meteor had continued NNW for the East Passage but while I had looked away, a large ~100' black hulled motor yacht had been approaching Meteor's port side at high speed. Meteor was moving at ~ 10 kts and the motor yacht apparently misjudged speed and distance because it suddenly had to make an almost 90º turn to port. From our perspective, it began to slide to starboard as it heeled way over to port and it didn't look like it was going to make it before it hit Meteor's port bow. Somehow, it seemed to just get by Meteor's bowsprit as Meteor made a sharp turn to port and jibed its main. Peg and I were both astonished. Peg still had her iPad in hand but had been so caught up in the near collision that it never occurred to either of us to take a video which would have been spectacular. I was monitoring both VHF 16 & 13 but heard nothing from either vessel. Meteor went on to continue to turn to port and into the wind to take in it sails and the motor yacht continued up the E Passage. I began to wonder if we had seen things right or was this some kind of high jinks between boats that were playing with each other. Who knows???
  • Once clear of Bretton Reef, Onward turned E toward Cuttyhunk and we were able to sail the rest of the day to make a nice peaceful and quiet approach to Cuttyhunk. The wind continued to build to where we were seeing > 20 kts apparent as we sailed on a very broad reach at ~ 8 kts!
  • Cuttyhunk harbor wasn't as empty as I expected on a Sunday evening -- a result I guess of Arthur and the holiday weekend. With the wind still at 20 kts, I started to enter the inner harbor and then did a 180º because I didn't want to have to deal with that wind in an area of limited maneuver room with the possibility I'd have to leave without a mooring. The fact that there were 6 - 10 moorings open in the outer field made that a more attractive choice. We easily picked up the mooring. However I still haven't come up with a good protocol for deciding if I'm going to use the anchoring / mooring bridle or go directly to a cleat. I eventually decided to use the bridle.
  • It had been a long day so Peg and I elected to have a light meal aboard and make it a relatively early night that included a bit of Downton Abbey.

7 July 14; Monday; Cuttyhunk to Provincetown.
  • We made up for the early night with a late morning because I forgot to put my phone on the charger so the alarms never went off. Once up we quickly got ready and Ventured into town. We walked along the E shore to the Fishing Club where we enjoyed one of their fantastic breakfasts while we contemplated Vineyard Sound. This was Peg's first visit to Cuttyhunk so we walked back through town and visited the shops. I managed to find someone to take a check for the mooring because they didn't come by last night to get payment. That done we headed back to Onward where I installed the replacement turning block with cam cleat before raising the dinghy. Peg stood buy to hold the block so I couldn't lose this one overboard.
  • We motorsailed with the genoa E to the Cape Cod Canal. the wind continued to build and we ran essentially downwind surfing at 10+ kts a good deal of the way with whitecaps everywhere. At 1230 we were in the canal and doing > 10 kts with the E flowing current. At 1330 we exited the E end and set a course for Provincetown. The wind and the seas were both down on this side of the Cape and we had a nice motorsail under genoa.
  • We picked up a Flyers mooring at 1615. It took 2 tries because a gust caught the bow at the last moment on the first approach and put the painter just inches away from the boat hook. I neglected to organize the bridle lines before picking up the mooring so getting the bridle attached took a bit of time. This was complicated by them having added two braided loops to the end of the heavier painter but on lines too short for me to be able to use on both bow cleats. Flyers shuttle only runs until 2000 so we decided to launch Venture to go into town. I'd asked Flyers where the dinghy dock was located and followed their instructions but found no dinghy dock. We ended up at the courtesy dock located between the two long piers where we tied up out of the way.
  • This was Peg's first visit to Ptown so we took a stroll down the main street to allow here to get the flavor of the place and to scout dinner. She had no idea Ptown was such a vibrant place with such a robust art and restaurant scene. She selected a nice place for dinner but there were no available tables but they did recommend another restaurant we had seen along the way. We headed back to Ristorante Marisa where we were able to snag a couple of seats at the bar. We had delicious dinners (scallops for Peg and Gnocchi for me). An after dinner walk took us to the S end of the main street while we both managed not to be lured into one of the many ice cream stores. The ride back to Onward was reasonably dry given the 15 kt wind.

8 July 14; Tuesday; Provincetown to Isles of Shoals
  • We dropped the mooring at 0530 and headed for Cape Ann. The SW wind had abated a bit overnight but was still > 10 kts. Once we rounded the cape -- a never ending process it seems -- the conditions looked so good that we set course directly for the Isle of Shoals. The wind calmed until there were no whitecaps yet still ~ 8 - 10 apparent on a broad port reach. Onward continued to make good speed motorsailing with the genoa and I set course directly for the Isles of Shoals.
  • We entered the harbor between Star and Smuttynose at about 1430 and found a YC mooring nearest the pier open. I launched Venture and headed over to another nearby boat to check if I was on a YC or a private mooring as I couldn't quite parse the lettering on the float. I was on a YC mooring and as there were a number of other open YC moorings it would likely be OK to stay. It really would be great if the Star Island Corporation (SIC), the non-profit that owns and manages the island as a summer meeting center for the Congregationalist and Unitarian Churches, maintained a Harbormaster to mange the moorings. This would eliminate some of the stress I (and other "outsiders", I'm sure) always have here trying to figure out if there is an open mooring that can be safely used.
  • Peg and I Ventured ashore and got a very friendly welcome from a lovely young woman lifeguard on the landing float. There is now a visitors sign in sheet and a donation box for a suggested $10/person donation on the stone pier. We took a leisurely walking tour of the island. On the rocky shore near the Art Barn, we came across several groups of seagulls watching over large chicks that periodically came out of hiding and walked around. This is the first time either Peg or I had seen seagull chicks. Neat.
  • One of the really nice stone cottages is now a historical site with information about the island and its most famous resident, Celia Thaxter, a poet who established a well recognized summer "salon" of poets, writers and artists. In the hotel building they have installed a historical display and timeline of the history of the Star Island Corp. Included is an aerial photograph showing how devoid of vegetation the island was when it maintained herds of farm animals.
  • We Ventured over to Smuttynose where we found the hidden cove off the main cove where it is possible to tie up a dinghy on a small beach and hike around the island. Our explorations done, we returned to Onward and discovered our friends had departed. A very welcome cocktail hour arrived. Suitably relaxed and mellow, Peg and I collaborated on a beef stew for dinner. We watched episode 1 of Downton Abby season 3 and discovered I had not downloaded the last episode of season 2! Drat I need to do that as soon as we get to a place with free wifi.

9 July 14; Wednesday; Isles of Shoals to Boothbay Harbor ME
  • Onward was underway at 0530. The winds had abated a bit during the night but there was still > 10 kts from the SW to work with. It was a gorgeous clear, sunny, crisp day and we decided to head directly for Boothbay Harbor, a straight shot with a small zag around Boon Island. We ended tacking a bit as we motorsailed downwind with the genoa to minimize the effect of the seas which while gentle had two different wave train components with one providing the rock & roll. Just E of Portland, a large USCG cutter gave us a call on VHF as they were going to cross our bows and head to sea.
  • Along the way, I sent a warning note to Corinthian Wally Savory to let him know we were in the area. I must have surprised him because this time he wasn't able to wander off to a wedding or a funeral as Onward neared. We made plans to move on to Maple Juice Cove after a couple of nights in Boothbay Harbor.
  • We entered Boothbay Harbor at 1430 and picked up a mooring from the Carousel Marina. Fresh showers had us ready to go exploring and we toured the harbor in Venture before tying up at he town dock. We headed over to the Opera House to see if there might be a production we could catch. In previous visits, there always seemed to be a good performance during my visit but this time my luck didn't hold and there was no performance until the 12th when we planned to have moved toward Penobscot Bay.
  • We spent the rest of the afternoon visiting galleries and boutiques. At the Mung Bean, I found some nicely done ships models done in stained glass. I took a photo and sent it on to Ron Draper, Ed Burke, and Dick Tudan. All of them have impressed me with their stained glass work so I figured they could have a contest to see who builds the best ships model of Onward in stained glass for me (I'm sure I'll have to work on this idea with them a bit more). There were also opportunities for "Crazy Grandpa" videos to send to my grandchildren.
  • This was hard and thirsty work so Peg and I put into the Chowder House where we had drinks at the bar created from the repurposed hull of a derelict Ideal 33 racing sailboat. We continued on to walk the W end of town and ended up having dinner at the Ports of Italy restaurant that I had enjoyed on my previous visit.

10 July 14; Thursday; Boothbay Harbor
  • After checking in at the Carousel Marina office, we took a short walk along the shore before returning to Venture. We headed across the harbor and put into the pier of the Maine State Aquarium. They have a single large exhibit room that is geared for the young. It includes a petting tank where young sharks, ~14" long were swimming about and kids, old and young, were encouraged to pet them. The small display tanks are set up 2 high around the periphery. They contain small / juvenile specimens of typical Maine marine life. I got to see a life cod fish for the first time. It is sad to learn that the cod fishery is still in dire straits as the fish have not responded to the limitations on catches. In spite of females each producing millions of eggs, predator species seem to keep numbers limited and aquaculture has not had much impact. Sad when you think of the vast schools of fish that fed Europe from the 1500s on.
  • We Ventured by the Boothbay Harbor Yacht Club just to check if Brian Callaghan might be at the piano -- he wasn't. Drat! After tying up at the town dingy dock, we stopped in again at the Chowder House and had lunch sitting at our favorite place, the boat bar. I had smoked salmon chowder. Delish.
  • Peg went to a hair salon appointment and I wander about and read. When she was done we did a bit more browsing in stores. We bought some cheeses and bread and a long SS blade-type pizza cutter before returning to Onward. In the early evening we headed over to the Lobster Wharf and enjoyed a lobster dinner. We met a couple visiting from CT and shared a table together as we talked and devoured lobsters. I learned Peg must have had surgery training the way she got every last bit of meat out of the shell -- I don't have that type of patience (or skill).

11 July 14; Friday; Boothbay Harbor to Maple Juice Cove
  • After warming up the engine a bit and gathering the needed stuff, I changed into my engine servicing outfit and proceeded to change the engine oil and filter. Not one of my cleanest jobs but very far from my messiest. That done, I made a trash run before we weighed anchor at 0830. The day had started clear and sunny but high cirrus moved in from the S as we headed E to Maple Juice Cove.
  • It was a trip of under 20 nm and the sunny weather made it a beautiful experience. At Maple Juice Cove, I found Wally Savory's guest mooring open with the mooring line well coated with seaweed. The line is so heavy it barely fit over Onwards foredeck cleat. One of Wally's fraternity brothers from Brown whom he hadn't seen in 50 years had just arrived for a visit. Wally took them for a tour of the Cove in DreadKnot, his small motor boat.
  • By the time we'd cleaned ourselves up, Wally and his guests had reappeared. We joined them ashore for cocktails and then helped Wally boil lobsters for lunch. Fresh! Delish! In mid afternoon Wally's guests had to depart and Peg and I went for a walk S along the peninsula to the Olson House famous as the site of many Andrew Wyeth paintings such as the iconic "Christina's World". This is now a National Historic site operated by the Farnsworth Gallery. We learned from Wally that Andrew Wyeth is buried in a field across the street from the house.
  • Our walk done, we returned to Onward to rest up after our hike in the sun. We had made plans with Wally to go into town for dinner but would meet for cocktails ashore at 1800. Once back ashore and sitting in Wally's very comfortable and well-appointed living room with its fantastic view of the Cove, we decided that the lobster lunch was all we needed so we just had an extended cocktail hour and gabfest. He showed us photos of a small sailboat he had bought so he can get his sailing fix on the St. Johns River when in FL. A very neat toy. We also learned that Wally when young had been in and out of the house of his neighbors, the Olsons, had known Christina well, and had gotten to watch Andrew Wyeth as he painted away. He told Peg and I how he used to joke with his mother about her having passed up many offers from Wyeth to buy paintings cheaply that were now worth a fortune.

12 July 14; Saturday; Maple Juice Cove
  • Last night I leaned from Wally that DreadKnot was suffering from a badly leaking packing gland and as a result the batteries were getting run down from the constantly running bilge pumps. I packed up tools and headed ashore to see if the problem was due to the packing gland nut being loose. It turned out to be corroded in place and my best efforts could not move it or stem the leak which was a thin stream.
  • In mid morning, Peg and I joined Wally for a short drive to the Cushing Library where there was an art exhibit of Maine artist Bernard "Blackie" Langlais who worked with wood assemblages.
  • When we returned to the house we found that Henry and Judy Paap, fellow Corinthians, had driven up for a visit. The plans were to go out for a sail on Wally's Dickerson, Foxfire. I returned to Onward to prepare a spinach and prosciutto calzone for lunch. While it was in the oven, I ventured back to DreadKnot with some rescue tape to see if I could use it to help stem the leak from the packing gland. I got several wrappings of rescue tape around the shaft agains the face of the gland nut but due to the flow of water could not get the tape to adhere tight enough to do more than slightly slow down the flow. Ah well, try 2 didn't work.
  • By this time the calzone was ready. I got to use the new pizza cutter to slice it up before wrapping it in foil. With calzone and a bottle of cold prosecco in hand, we headed back to pick up Wally and guests and ferry then to Foxfire.
  • With Wally at the helm, the other 4 members of the crew got involved with casting off from the mooring and then raising and setting the yankee and main. It has been a very long time since I have had to manually uncover, raise, and set sails. Doing this on Foxfire brought back a lot of memories - good memories - but it also reinforced how much better I like the way sails are handled on Onward. There was a 10 to 12 kt wind from the SW and it was a perfect afternoon for a leisurely sail down the St. George River. With Foxfire's totally open cockpit, the view was spectacular as we passed much closer to islands than I would take Onward. Along the way Wally spotted a white ketch motoring down the river and we managed to catch up with it at the entrance to the passage to Port Clyde. It was Tango with fellow Corinthians Roger and Jane Fortin. He was flying his Corinthian flag but couldn't see Foxfire's as it was occluded by the main. So he was quite surprised when this strange boat with 5 people aboard started harassing him. He finally got it and we got to say hello before he continued through the passage to Tenants Harbor and we had to put about to return home.
  • Henry and Judy had to head S by car after the sail. I had an idea for packing gland drip fixing. Wally found a SS hose clamp that I fastened around the wad of rescue tape and then tightened up. This made a big difference. When I used my hand to push the assemblage back against the face of the nut, the leaking went from a continuous thin stream to a very slow drip. Hola! On that note, I returned to Onward for a bit of a rest.
  • I picked up Wally and Ventured him back to Onward for cocktails and dinner of breaded chicken cutlets and angel hair pasta aoli. We had a fine time discussing this and that.

13 July 14; Sunday; Maple Juice Cove
  • We Ventured in to Wally's dock at 0945 and I checked DreadKnot and found only the packing gland drip had slightly increased overnight. Wally drove us off to the home of his friends Steve and Ginny Hibbard who have a lovely home on the W side of the neck. This is the good side according to Steve; Wally, of course, sees it differently. We then headed off to the annual George River Conservation Trust garden tour. I had put the 7 addresses in my iPhone so I ended up being the group navigator. The morning had started out quite overcast but by the time we got to the first garden, the sun had burned through and yet another lovely day was given us to enjoy.
  • The gardens were all in the watershed of the St. George River and a number of them were up at higher elevations. Each garden reflected the environment and the distinctive tastes of the owners/gardeners. Each presented several gorgeous vistas for our enjoyment. Many of the flowers were not quite in bloom reflecting the hard winter that only gave up its clutch on the area in mid June. We were able to enjoy lunch at one of the gardens while seated in the shade overlooking a lovely vista of meadows sloping down to a narrow creek that was the upper arm of the St. George River.
  • In late afternoon we returned to Wally's roost to find that the repairman for his packing gland leak had not come. I had Wally fetch a hammer and a longer screwdriver and used these to press the hose clamp / rescue tape "bandage" tightly against the face of the packing gland nut. Hola! The leak stopped completely. On that success, Peg and I returned to Onward for our afternoon naps. We had intended to have Wally over for cocktails at 1800 but by that time clouds had moved in and the winds come up to the point that a dinghy ride didn't seem like a good idea to any of us so we had a "distributed" cocktail hour.

14 July 14; Monday; Maple Juice Cove to Isle au Haut
  • I went in to offload some trash & recyclables in Wally's bins. We checked the packing gland "bandage" and found it still doing an effective job. I took Wally out to get his rowing dinghy before returning to Onward and getting underway at 0930. There was a hazy sun and once Onward entered the St. George River, it was enveloped in fog. We motorsailed down the river and at the mouth were able to sail E for a short time before the wind died. We had dense fog with less than 500' visibility. With radar overlaid on the chartplotter, navigating is easy. The hard part is being continually on task to spot lobster floats as they suddenly break through the fog and then making the decision whether evasive action is necessary.
  • We had no real plan as where to go other than E into Penobscot Bay. One possibility was Tenants Harbor if the conditions were too bad to continue E across the Bay. As the seas and winds were calm with just some long swells from the SW, I decided to try to get as far E as possible and then work our way counter-clockwise around the Bay over the next 7-10 days. I put Peg to work looking at the coastal guide book while I played around with the charts on my iPad. Both of us looking for lobster traps as the same time. There were a good number of lobster boats out so Peg and I had to work out a communication scheme: she would yell "trap" and point with her hand when she saw a float as we realized the word 'float" sounded too much like "boat" -- the other hazard we were tracking by radar. This worked quite well. On several occasions we tracked lobster boats on radar that came within 0.125 nm of Onward without us being able to see them at all. This is the time I'd like to have one of those really loud fog horns aboard as their engines are so loud I doubt they would hear either my electronically generated fog signals or the small compressed gas horn. I need to research this.
  • My original idea had been to move directly to Mt. Desert from Maple Juice Cove and spend a few days there because I have enjoyed it so much in the past. Peg and I talked and I learned she had spent time there on a bike trip so we decided to check out some new places. As we headed E, we began to do some research on Isle au Haut which I have sailed by so many times but never visited. With the big SW swells, the entire SW quadrant would be unacceptable so we set a route to Laundry Cove at the NE tip of the island. As we got closer to the island, the fog got thicker and I began to be concerned about trying to anchor in a new-to-me harbor in the fog. So, I changed the plan and set course for the W side of the passage between Isle of Haut and Kimball Island. The guide books and some other info I'd gleaned from the internet said there were a few rental moorings available. I figured it wouldn't be to crowded because there weren't many crazies like me that navigate about in the fog.
  • As we moved farther E in the Bay, the infamous "float and toggle" traps began to show up. These weren't too hard to avoid in the open ocean. Also, we had noticed, even in the infamous St. George River, that the total number of traps set was much less than when Onward was here last year. However, as we approached the passage, a float and toggle appeared out of the dense fog immediately across the bow. My hard port turn wasn't sufficient and it got snagged on the keel. I put the engine in neutral and did a 180º to starboard. Neither Peg or I could see a float and we thought it was gone. However, as Onward got back on course and I throttled up, we suddenly saw the float and toggle appear off the stern. Oh the joys...
  • By this time, we were close enough to begin to see the shore as the entrance to the passage narrowed. By the time we were abreast of the Isle au Haut light, the fog lifted and we had an easy time of entering the central area of the passage where we found several pink buoys marked Rental. We came about and Peg deafly picked up the first one we'd seen. It turned out to have a small Gatorade bottle tied to the pickup float with cash in it. The pickup float had a note written on it that the mooring was $25 / night and the fee should be put in the bottle. Truly an "honor system".
  • Peg and I Ventured on a tour of the harbor. The narrow dredged passage to the E was well marked. Notes I came across warned about sailboats using it at low tied due to shoaling. However, with a 10' tide in the area, it should be possible to make it through with a big of tide. We checked out Laundry Cove and found a lot more room to anchor than apparent from the charts (somehow, anchorages always look too small on a chart). Having completed our recon, we tied up at the dingy float at the town pier and walked into town.
  • We found the general store just a short walk E and found it well stocked including plenty of beer. There is also a gift shop on the shore just before the store. We then headed back W to the Acadia Park Ranger Office and picked up a map of the hiking trails. We found the Keepers House of the Isle of Haut light is now an inn with a nice dining room and menu. There is also the local gem, a chocolate shop and restaurant. Both of these are further W from the Park office along the shore road. As it was 1700, we decided to walk out there another day. Back at the pier, we found the van from the inn and met the husband of the chef who have us more information. He told us there are two rental moorings available and a dinghy float. So we will have to try a visit by boat.
  • Peg and I returned to Onward in time for cocktail hour and spent a quiet night reading as the winds began to pick up and the fog moved back in.

15 July 14; Tuesday; Isle au Haut
  • The fantastic run of great weather we've been so fortunate to have has finally run out with a trough stalled over us. We awoke late having heard it raining and in no hurry to face the expected dreary day. We had planned to go hiking in the Isle au Haut segment of Acadia National Park but a parade of heavy rain showers put paid to that idea. Peg read while I caught up on this journal. Unfortunately cellular data service in this anchorage is extremely poor so it will be a while before I get to publish my efforts. A rainy day on a cruise when one is retired is not a bad thing.
  • The Fischer Panda generator went back to giving me a hard time starting. For years, it always started in < 5 sec. Then something changed and I installed a fuel back flow line which seemed to help. Now periodically it goes through periods where it is hard to start and I've not been able to correlate them with anything. Since entering the Chesapeake it had been back to starting almost immediately. Now here it was playing hard to start. I finally gave up and ran the Yanmar for an hour to heat water and put some charge in the batteries.

16 July 14; Wednesday; Isle au Haut
  • A day punctuated by heavy rain squalls trooping by. The front decided to train NE over us with very little E movement. With very poor cellular data service, it was impossible to follow the rain front's progress by digital radar. This made me realize how much I have come to depend on this information. Ah well.
  • I managed to get myself moving and working on miscellaneous tasks. One of the firsts was to try again to get the generator running. With the lack of sun and wind, the batteries have been well tapped. I ran the Yanmar for an hour to top up the batteries. After it was running for a bit, I tried to start the generator and it started almost immediately. It ran for a bit but didn't come up to normal V and frequency as quickly as it usually does. Then, after ~ 5 min, the engine temperature trouble light came on and it shut down. It hadn't run long enough to overheat and I could also hear water flow in the water separator. I shut it down and let it cool then restarted. It started and then immediately shut down. I repeated this several times. I think the problem is now a bad engine temperature sensor that is causing the safety shut down circuits to activate. Oh Joy!
  • We had a late lunch and spent the balance of the day reading. The rain mostly petered out by dusk. We had beef stew over angle hair pasta for dinner and watched another episode of Turn.

17 July 14; Thursday; Laundry Cove, Isle au Haut
  • Well the rain was gone; replaced by the fog. I pumped out Venture and topped up the fuel tank with 5 gal of gas from the jerrycan. The plan was to celebrate the passage of the rain front by going ashore for a hike. We were dressed for it being chilly and wet. However as soon as we started the trail to Duck Cove from the Ranger Office, it became warm and humid. The trail was very wet and partially underwater in places due to the last two days of downpours. It was a beautiful hike that eventually went along the shore of Moores Cove before heading inland again. After about 2 hours of hiking, the trail crossed the dirt road to Duck Cove.
  • As we were both hungry and well-exercised by this point, we whimped out and headed back to town on the dirt road - a lovely hike on its own. Other hikers we encountered told us we could have take the ferry from the harbor to Duck Harbor and then hiked back to town. After exiting the Park just before the road to the lighthouse, we continued on the paved road until we came to an amazing anomaly: Chocolate Dinah's. Here we had lunch of delicious paninis. As the name reflects, they also produce high-end chocolates! Of course we had to take some dark chocolate samples. Peg discovered the barn had been converted into a factory for making chocolates when she was looking for the restrooms. We later learned that the family had moved to the island so the mom could teach and they came up with the lunchroom and chocolate making as a way to make it. Neat.
  • After visiting the Island Store and gift shop, we quickly prepared to depart the mooring. It was a bit strange to stuff yet more $ in a plastic bottle already filled. The honor system at work. As it was high tide, I felt comfortable taking Onward through the narrow and relatively shallow channel to the E side of the passage. With the tide at +10' above datum we saw a minimum of 17.3' on our transit. We headed to Laundry Cove where we found plenty of room to anchor - essentially by ourselves and had a quiet night following a spectacular color light show from the sunset.

18 July 14; Friday; Isle au Haute to McGlathery's I
  • Another lovely day dawned and saw us weigh anchor and head N at a leisurely pace to anchor at one of the small islands S of Deer Isle. Before departing, I decided to take one more quick look at the generator and I found one of the connectors to the temperature sensor on the engine block had come off. No wonder why the engine wouldn't start! I also found the sensor on the exhaust elbow was loose and could vibrate in its mount. With these items quickly repaired, the generator started promptly.
  • While underway I decided to go back to McGlathery's I because of the fond memories this evoked. In 2008, I had anchored here with daughter Laura and her husband, Kurlen after picking them up at Rockland. It was wonderful to see how much they enjoyed Maine as did Joseph in a later year. Perhaps I will someday be able to share this with daughter Joahna, too.
  • We found three smaller sailboats already at anchor closer to shore. It was close to low tide so we went ashore to the beach and spent a couple of hours clambering over the rocky shore. Once back ashore, we picked up some gear and headed to Stonington. There we visited the Farmers Market and did some shopping for fresh goodies. After a walk about town and visiting some shops, we had dinner at the Aragosta where we ate on the deck under their neat sunshade.
  • The substantial lunch made for a quiet evening aboard. We were disappointed that there was very poor cell service and almost no data. Verizon is still working through the primitive "extended" network on the W side of the Penobscot. Baah.

19 July 14; Saturday; McGlathery's I to Winter Harbor, Vinylhaven
  • The cellular data service was still poor so, instead of moving further E toward Mount Desert, we decided to go W. I assigned Peg the job of choosing an interesting anchorage in this area as it was all new to me. She chose Winter Haven Harbor on Vinelhaven Island's SE coast. The existence of a harbor is not evident until about 0.5 nm off shore. The entrance is narrow but easy to navigate. We anchored about 0.75 mi. from the entrance in what looked like a narrow frjoid. Once settled we launched Venture and went on a scouting trip to the W end of the anchorage where we found the remnants of a granite quarry.
  • We traveled back toward the entrance and then took a passage S int Seal Harbor which we explored to its W end. As we made our return trip, we encountered two kayakers so I throttled back to provide a gentle pass. We ended having a chat with the husband an wife who were on their sailboat anchored in the harbor. They had been the former owners of a marina Crocket's Boat Yard now operated by Hinkley on the Chesapeake and had lived in Charleston. They now lived in Charleston during the winters.
  • Once back aboard we had a quiet afternoon and evening.

20 July 14; Sunday; Winter Harbor to Holbrook I
  • Our sunny sky luck ran out again and Onward moved N toward Castine under high overcast skies. We had originally intended to go to Mt. Desert I and NE Harbor but the lack of adequate cellular service there last year made me change my mind and head for the W side of the Penobscot where there is good service. When we were halfway there, I received a text that my good friend Maher Elmasri had sailed Zarafa to SW Harbor. Drat! I would have loved to spend time with them as we had done on Mt. Desert in previous years.
  • Onward picked up a mooring in our usual place near the landing for the park in Holbrook I harbor. It seems all the moorings in this spot are marked private except for one red one marked Guest. I picked up one of the private moorings that I had used in previous years as only 2 of the other moorings were in use.
  • The skies had darkened and light rain squalls moved in so we decided to stay warm and dry aboard instead of venturing to Castine.

21 July 14; Monday; Holbrook I to Belfast
  • Another gorgeous sunny, clear, crisp morning greeted us so we were off in Venture for the ~ 2 nm trip from our mooring to Castine. We tied up at the town pier just off the bow of the Maine Maritime Academy's training ship. I took Peg on a walking tour. At the Historical Society Museum we they had quite a good exhibit on the War of 1812 whose bicentennial is being celebrated this year. Their new office and archive vault building is nearing completion next door. Last year we observed them as they jacked up the 1850 building and were installing a new foundation to replace the decrepit original. As in the past, I was charmed by the steeple of the Unitarian church and we were invited in to take a look at the interior. Very historic and traditional with boxed pews; very nice.
  • On the village green it was tough for me to pass by when a nap on the shady lawn called. I don't know what there is about Castine's library but in all my visits to this town, they seem to never coincide with its hours of operation. We completed our walk about town and headed back to the waterfront where we had lunch at Dennet's Wharf before returning to Venture and thence to Onward.
  • On the return trip, we passed by Merlin, a double-ender from ME. We stopped to chat and take a picture to send to the Merlins. Ed and Tina encountered this boat , named for the wizard and not the raptor, last year.

22 July 14; Tuesday; Belfast to Camden
  • We weighed anchor by 0800 and motored S to Camden. We picked up a mooring from Wayfarer Marine in the cove. I love their way of marking their moorings. The white balls with orange dots are for boats to 50'. After a quick shower I was ready to go ashore and we took the launch in. We walked through the beautiful park at the head of the harbor. Together with the dell / amphitheater across the street, it is a beautiful oasis. It was again hard for me to pass up without stopping for a nap in the shade. I learned that these parks were gifts to the town from the "summer folks" during the depression years. Neat.
  • We didn't get far in our exploration of the town before we were captured by a restaurant offering good beers on tap. Both Peg and I enjoyed a locally brewed traditional English pub ale with our lobster roll and lobster & salad lunches. Refueled, we waled about town and did some browsing for shopping . Peg and I are both lookers but not much of buyers. Somehow we always manage to find a bookstore to browse and this time I got to try a Breve (an Americano with half & half, I was told). We visited the underground library. I overheard a discussion Our circumnavigation of the town done, we stopped in at French & Braun for some groceries. Peg found fresh mussels and we decided to have dinner aboard. We had intended to remain ashore to have dinner but we were still too full from lunch. We returned to Onward for a quiet evening and a delicious meal of steamed mussels while we watched an episode of Turn. As we were on an outer mooring, we got rocked to sleep by the gentle swell.

23 July 14; Wednesday; Camden to Rockland
  • We dropped the mooring at 0730 and headed in for water and fuel. We found the fuel pier open and were quickly able to accomplish doing a pump out, refueling, and filling water tanks. Peggy and I are amazingly good with water conservation as this is the first time I've refilled tanks since leaving EGYC on 4 July and we still had ~ 35% of the supply left.
  • The replenishment mission accomplished we headed S to Rockland passing Rockport on the way and I was very tempted to put in. We anchored just outside the mooring field and quickly departed in Venture to explore ashore. The town pier is collecting a $5 landing fee but the transient dinghy float is full of dinghies from locals who have moorings and many of them have their outboards tipped up so they are a real hazard in the confined space.
  • We found them preparing for the annual Lobster Festival by erecting the tents. We walked about town to give Peg the flavor of the place. One of the places we looked into was the building that is full of old odd stuff. I peaked through the window and saw a Harley motorcycle sculpted from wood. That gave me an idea so I looked in at the office where the sign says it is not open to the public and an appointment is needed. I found the owner, Jerry, and suggested he contact Billy Joel's motorcycle museum curator to make him aware of the wooden Harley. He thought that was a good idea so he let Peg and I roam through the buildings. He told us he has other warehouses in FL where he spends 9 months of the year with a lot more. This is a guy obviously having fun wheeling and dealing with everything from simple junk through arcane items to beautiful art work furnishings.
  • Our appetites whetted we stopped at the pub overlooking the harbor for excellent lobster rolls and good beers. Next it was off to have an expresso before going to the Farnsworth where we spent the afternoon. Our exploration of town complete, we decided to return to Onward and have dinner aboard.

24 July 14; Thursday; Rockland to Bath
  • Onward was underway at 0615 and that started the rain that followed us as we motorsailed SW. It ended at 1100 and we approached the mouth of the Kennebec River in sunlight. This was my first trip up this river and its entrance is a bit off-putting. However, I kept telling myself that they built destroyers and cruisers at BIW so they have to be able to get them out safely. It was a beautiful trip with both banks being fairly unspoiled. At one point, on the E bank about 3 miles up, someone is injecting a great deal of money into the economy by building a huge house and out buildings along the ridge.
  • The current was against us and at one point we got down to 2.5 kts SOG at 2800 rpm! We entered the river at ~1215 and we arrived at the Maine Maritime Museum moorings at 1530 where we picked up a 5000 lb. mooring in the outer row. It was too late to go to the museum so we Ventured N under the bridge to the Bath town pier and waterfront park. We walked around the downtown area which was very clean and full of neat shops. We found a great place that specialized in items made in Maine where left some $ behind. We also found a great kitchen store where we found several things we didn't realize we needed. One of these is a pocket gadget for making baked dough pockets that you can add various filling to for appetizers or deserts. I see some experimenting ahead.
  • I had read there was a great BBQ restaurant in town and one of the woman who ran the kitchen store (can't pass one without stopping) confirmed this. So we found Beale Street BBQ and had a great meal. We stopped and had a smidgen of ice cream and then did some grocery shopping at the great little IGA market across from the park. Shopped and fed out, we headed back to Onward for a quiet night.

25 July 14; Friday; Bath to South Freeport
  • Peg and I were ashore at 0930 when the Maine Maritime Museum opened. The first thing we did after coming ashore was to walk about the metal sculpture of the Wyoming. We felt tiny in its presence. Very impressive.
  • The main museum building is beautiful and has great exhibits on all aspects of maritime commerce and life in Maine. MMM is on the grounds of a former shipyard and many of the shops of the yard were incorporated into the museum. We toured the woodworking shop when both rough timbers and finished millwork were produced to support the construction of up to 2 ships on parallel ways. The result of these efforts leading to huge ships like the Wyoming.
  • We had a tasty lunch at the small outdoor cafe and then toured the house of a former shipyard owner. The wealth and social privilege that this family had was evident from photos of various social activities they engaged in. One of these was the "Chew the Rag Club" a gathering of the young men of Bath who were of similar economic status. The MMM exhibit had explained that many shipbuilders owned and operated some of the ships they built. They earned back many times their cost of construction and then they sold the still quite valuable ships to other operators. The growth of steam power and transition to iron and steel construction ended this era.
  • At 1300 the current had switched and the ebb began. We headed back to Onward and were underway at 1400. The trip down the river took only about an hour as we averaged ~ 8 kts SOG at 2200 rpm. Much easier than the trip up river. As we exited the mouth of the river, I set course to take us near a green buoy offshore. Peg warned me that I was heading toward a fish trap. I adjusted course but was surprised there would be a fish trap in this area and at 30' depths. The stabilized binoculars revealed that it was a 35 - 40' dead fir tree. As we passed, I reported its presence to the USCG.
  • We entered Casco Bay and headed NW through the Broad Reach passage to South Freeport. The lobster floats were heavier her than they had been in the Penobscot. We picked up mooring 204 at Brewer's Freeport. I had received an email and then text from Carolyn Collins and her husband Andrew Fowlie whom I had spent a large part of my first winter in the Bahamas with. They had brought their Taswell 43, Pendragon, to Maine for a few weeks. I had thought they were still in the Portsmouth NH area so I was surprised when I called them and found they were less than 6 nm away in Casco Bay. We made plans to rendezvous Saturday afternoon.
  • We quickly Ventured ashore to the lobster shack where we had what we figured would be our last Maine lobster rolls. I don't know what it is but i keep forgetting that this is a BYOB place. So we ended up beverage less for dinner. On a previous visit, I remember going from table to table trying to find someone with extra beers that I could buy (I was successful then). We shared a picnic table with a woman and her friend. It turned out she had family that owned homes on Elbow Cay near Hope Town, Abacos. I gave her a BCG card and asked her to pass it on to her family members.

26 July 14; Saturday; South Freeport to Harpswell Harbor
  • The Brewers dinghy dock is still as crowded as ever and the fact that they do not require their long-term mooring users to not tilt up their outboards makes landing their a nerve wracking experience. We got a ride into town from AB Cabs and Dan, the owner, was our driver. He had driven me several times before so we had a good chat as we drove in. He has been successful and finding good help by hiring college graduates who can't find a job in their major area of study.
  • We visited LL Bean, of course, where I replenished the polo shirts that I like so much and have worn out. I decided not to have them embroidered with "Onward" as I had in the past. I'm going to investigate having the Onward logo embroidered at the store in Beaufort NC that did my hat a few years ago.
  • I made the mistake of taking Peg into the LL Bean Home Store. As a result we bought new flannel sheets to replace the ones from Bed Bath & Beyond that have proven to be a disappointment. I didn't escape before buying a new comforter for the forward berth to replace the one I first bought in 2003 and have since damaged by using that berth as a workbench. We visited a couple of clothing outlet stores before going to a roadside food stand that was offering pork fried rice and crab rangoon. Delish.
  • On the cab ride back to the marina, I again chatted with Dan this time about cruising. I told him how I had been so fearful during my first trip to Maine due to the rocky terrain being such a contrast to the Chesapeake. I told him that I had enough experience now that my concern was with complacency. Once back at the marina, we were quickly underway by 1400. Carolyn and Andrew had sent me their lat/long for where they were anchored on Harpswell Island so were were off to join them. The SW wind had pick up to 15-20 kts and we had to motor right into it. While I navigated, Peg took a nap in the calm conditions. As we approached the cut S of Eagle Island, I should have expected the water to be choppy and he waves to pick up due to the wind against current. As we got to the narrows, we started hitting waves with a bit of water over the bow. I did a mental check and looked at the deck and decided all hatches were closed. On one heavy crash into the slop, Peg awoke from her nap, gasped, and ran below. She had opened the forward hatch in the head and water had come aboard. Like a whirlwind she managed to clean up, rinse down with fresh water and then clean again while we were still underway.
  • Once we turned N after passing Eagle I, the sea conditions calmed out and this hazard was replaced by shore to shore lobster floats so dense at times there seemed to be no path through. The good news is that they do not use the float and toggle system on the Casco and thus the dense array of floats was less hazardous to weave our way through.
  • We found Pendragon at anchor in the cove on the E shore of the W leg of the island and we anchored nearby. Once anchored, Peg and I had a chance to talk about how my fear of complacency had come to be well founded: I had treated the trip to Harpswell as a simple trip across a lake and had completely ignored running through the checklist for getting underway due to my impatience to get going; Peg had abetted that by failing to do the same and reminding me. We made a pact to keep each other on task to do it right in the future.
  • The Pendragons invited us over for drinks so we Ventured over quickly. It was wonderful to catch up with good friends and we had so much to say that cocktails turned into dinner. A fantastic time was had by all.

27 July 14; Sunday; Harpswell Harbor
  • An overcast sky greeted us and the morning review of weather showed a cold front with rain coming through after mid-day. I had planned to move to Portsmouth to put us 50 nm closer to Cape Ann but the coming front and the 15-20 kts and 4' seas from the S-SW didn't seem like good traveling weather. A check of the weather radar and a USCG hazardous weather alert confirmed the decision to stay. Peg and I decided to get stuff done on deck before the rain storms arrived.
  • The Pendragons departed about 1000 to move to South Freeport before the storm. I worked on cleaning and resealing the hatch over the navstation that has developed an annoying small leak in heavy rains. I had coated the rubber gasket with synthetic grease a week or so ago but this appears to have dried out enough that it wasn't helping. So I cleaned the gaskets with ArmorAll, added a bead of windshield sealant around the glazing, and put a strip of tape along the leading edge to prevent windblown water from being pushed into the seal area.
  • We then moved on to polishing the stainless steel and Peg and I planned to work for just a half-hour. However, I learned that once she got started she was not to be stopped. So we, mostly Peg, got most of the stainless cleaned. I decided to take the plywood cover off Venture's cooler-seat so I could add a coat of varnish before it got wet. Then I put a trash bag over the plastic cover so rain wouldn't get into the holes and then into the interior. As I went to close the lid, it trapped a finger on my right hand and as I tried to get that loose, I lost my footing and fell head first into the outboard konking myself hard on the forehead and hurting my neck to boot. Such grace.
  • A couple from a beautiful trawler dinghyed over to say hello. They live in Vero Beach and were spending the summer in NE like us.
  • By 1230, it had started to drizzle and get cold. This was a good time to declare victory and go below for lunch. I had a sandwich for lunch and a can of narcotic -- Sam's Boston Larger. While I read and napped, Peg got busy in the galley and whipped up: breaded chicken cutlets which she baked followed by her wonderful chicken marsala - an almost-stew with chicken cutlets, sauce, potatoes, and carrots. To top it off she tried out a new recipe for chicken cacciatore. Wow. I was impressed with her culinary industry!
  • The front passed through with a lot of rain but non of the strong thunderstorms and strong winds that were a potential threat. Good! In further celebration of our deliverance we got to have Peg's chicken cacciatore served over penne. Wow. Knocked my sox off (theoretical sox, of course).

28 July 14; Monday; Harpswell Harbor
  • It continued to rain during the day but I managed to sand and get a coat of varnish on the plywood I use as a seat on the top of the dinghy cooler/seat.

29 July 14; Tuesday; Harpswell Harbor
  • The passage of the front last night left us with a pleasant day with only partly cloudy skies. With the local weather so nice if felt wrong to be sitting at anchor instead of being on the way to Cape Cod Bay. But the remnants of 6' seas and predicted 15 - 20 kts on the nose offshore kept us playing the prudent sailors. I still could not get the generator to start even with a jump from the thruster battery. Iran the engine to get warm water and recharge the batteries which hadn't gotten much solar power due to the overcast skies.
  • I used the morning productively to bake the batch of pepper biscotti. While that was in the oven, I decided to experiment with my new appetizer / desert pocket maker. I set aside some of the pepper biscotti dough to play with. I rolled some out to ~1/4" sheets and then used two ~1' mini cookie cutters to make small cutouts. I did the same with some of the bread dough. The idea was to see how this would be for making bite-sized biscotti to for appetizers. This worked fairly well but took time. I'm not sure I'd want to do this regularly.
  • I needed something to use as a filler for experimenting with the pocket appetizer maker. I sautéed olive oil, garlic, a small amount of thin green pepper pieces, a thinly sliced shallot and pine nuts. When this was done, I took a can of chicken breast and broke up the meat into small chunks before adding it to the rest of the mixture. I then mixed and sautéed this for a bit. Delish! Wow, I wish I had thought of doing this earlier! I set half of the filer aside and then added a few tablespoons of pesto sauce from a jar and reheated the new mixture. Delish, too!
  • I then rolled out sheets of both biscotti dough and bread dough, use the oval cutter from the pocket maker to cut dough blanks, placed these on the pocket maker, pressed down the center to form a depression, put in ~ a teaspoon of filler, then closed the wings of the pocket maker to form the pocket.
  • The pocket maker instructions we found were missing when we had gotten back aboard Onward with the new kitchen toy. The instructions I was able to find on line advised using pre-made puff pastry dough. The bread and biscotti doughs worked but not an easy process. A tougher more elastic, thinner dough would be best.
  • I had a package of filo dough in the freezer and I decided to try that. Id been carrying it aboard for a while so the layers were a bit dried out. They were too brittle to work in the pocket maker. I hand formed a couple of filled units to try.
  • My experimental work done, I took half of the bread dough and made two calzones; one with the pesto filling one with the non-pesto filling.
  • While the baking continued, I got energetic on working on boat projects. Another try starting the generator with a recharged booster battery brought it to life. I ran it to make hot water and completely recharge all the batteries. I then dug out the sewing machine and set it up. Peg and I teamed up to make a sunbrella cover for the plywood dinghy seat and to cover the cushion for the forward compartment of Venture. I hadn't installed this yet because I didn't want the nice pristine white vinyl cover to get trashed. We worked on this until noon then we both showered and headed out in Venture to explore Orrs Island and Bailey Island. After Venturing around the small harbor, we tied up at the dinghy dock of the Orrs-Bailey I Yacht Club. Peg discovered their website lists 4 moorings for rental for a donation; the mooring number and size of anchor stone is listed. We talked to folks at the YC and they had no problem with us tying up. We walked S over the bridge connecting the two islands. It is unique as the approaches on both sides of the cement-deck span are built from cribs of granite slabs -- like a gigantic Lincoln Log toy. Neat. There are 3 restaurants around the bridge. We walked to the furthest for exercise (to earn the beers we planned to drink). The meal at Cooks was only adequate but we didn't complain as we'd worked up an appetite. Lunch and exercise missions complete, we returned to Venture. We sopped by a boat that had shared the anchorage with us during the front passage. They were a local couple who were out for a quiet few days cruise.
  • Back aboard, we finished the seat & cushion cover work with Peg doing the sewing and me as the sewing machine mechanic. While she sewed, I worked on getting Onward ready for the long offshore passage between here and Cape Ann tomorrow. We were busy until after 1900 when we sat back for cocktail hour where we got to try out my experiments. The fillings were delicious. The bread dough pockets were better than those from biscotti dough. The filo sheet appetizers were very flakey. For dinner we ended up eating sections of calzone -- and we both decided this was even better than the pockets which were tasty.

30 July 14; Wednesday; Harpswell Harbor to Gloucester
  • An overcast but calm morning greeted us in the pre-sunrise light. I prepared Onward for departure yesterday afternoon and we were up at 0430 and weighed anchor at 0525. Once we got through the thicket of lobster floats in the narrows, we set course directly for Cape Ann. The wind was light and variable and the seas were calm with long SSE swells. We set the main to steady our motion as we cut across the gentle long-period swells from the SSW. The wind direction, as predicted kept changing directions about the compass. For a while it settled into the S and we got a slight boost in SOG. About then, fog slowly enveloped us and thickened to the point the only way we could see the water was to look down over the sides. After ~ 3 hrs of this, it slowly lifted and for the last 3-4 hrs we had good visibility. We rounded Cape Ann about 1630 and headed to Gloucester where we anchored in our usual spot at 1800.
  • Peg made plans with her friends Duncan and Joan who have a home nearby to meet for dinner. We were soon Venturing into town and tied up at the dinghy pier at the Harbormaster's office next to the USCG station. We walked to Main Street and the Passport's Restaurant. There we had a great time catching up with Duncan and Joan and got to have a wonderful meal to boot. The dinghy ride through a dark harbor is always longer but we had not problem reaching Onward and were soon asleep.

31 July 14; Thursday; Gloucester to Boston.
  • After a very quiet night and a bit of a lazy morning, I made coffee and then started to make some Onward English Muffins for breakfast. Well, the propane tank chose that time to go empty. Since I'd forgotten to fill the other while at EGYC, we had a bit of a problem. Then I remembered the adaptor I'd been carrying about for years that allows me to connect a 1-lb disposable propane cylinder to the stern regulator. I did this and hola!, it worked fine and I was able to finish preparing breakfast. Delish.
  • I called the Gloucester Harbormaster to find if there were any propane refill stations near the harbor and to my pleasant surprise found there was one within 200 yds of the dinghy dock. So Peg and I ventured in, filled the tanks and did some mandatory hardware store shopping. Next stop was the fuel pier as Venture's tank was down to 0.5 gal. All refueled, we headed back to Onward and were underway by 1100.
  • Earlier in the morning I'd finally gotten around to doing some homework about cruising the Boston Harbor Islands. A number of friends have told me they enjoyed visiting them so Peg and I planned to spend tonight anchored at the islands and then head in to Waterboat Marina where we reserved a slip for our visit to explore historic Boston and meet with Peg's daughter, Val, and family.
  • I called Carolyn and Andrew to get benefit of their experience in anchoring among the Boston Harbor Islands. That done I plotted a route and we headed to Boston Harbor.
  • Clouds were moving in but there was a ~10-12 kt SW wind and we were not in a hurry so, once we cleared the shoals S of Marblehead / Salem, we set the genoa and decided to laze along to the harbor entrance. Therein lies a tale. As we approached the mouth of the N channel, the winds were going to be right on our nose as we went through the narrowest section. So, I decided it was time for the Yanmar. It always starts in less than a second. But this time: nothing! I thought it might be a problem with low voltage on the starter battery so I slaved Onward's 3 battery banks together and tried to start. Nothing. I could distinctly hear the starter solenoid functioning. Not good.
  • The wind had settled to come from the SW but fallen off to < 10 kts. I had intended to take the N channel in past the narrows and then head off to the S to anchor for the night behind one of the islands. As the current was about to shift to outgoing and with the adverse direction and low variable wind speed, I didn't think it prudent for me to demonstrate my sailing prowess by trying to tack Onward down the narrow and unfamiliar channel. There was just enough wind to enable me to get to a position about in the middle between the N & S channels where the bottom shoaled to ~ 30'. Once there, we anchored for the night.
  • I called TowBoat US and told them I would likely need a tow in in the morning. I called Waterboat Marina to tell them I would likely need to get towed in and asked for them to make a berth available that would accommodate this. I then called the Boston USCG to tell them where and why I was anchored in case they got any calls.
  • I then started more troubleshooting. There had been no hint of a problem when I started the engine in Gloucester this morning. The only anomaly had come when leaving Rockland and there had been no response when I pushed the starter button. I had then combined battery banks and the starter functioned normally. At the time, I attributed it to the fact that I'd drawn down the battery banks due to overcast skies for several days without using the engine or generator. First I topped up the water in the batteries. I'd let the level get lower than I liked but they were OK. I then started and ran the genset to bring them fully up to charge. The starter still did not function. I got access to the starter and checked the wire connections and they were fine. With all 1000 AH of battery power on line I watched the line voltage when the switch was pushed; the voltage dropped to < 9 V -- so there was a tremendous load being switched on. I l also physically shorted across the starter solenoid terminals to verify that this wasn't the problem -- although the V drop had said it was working.
  • The TowBoat US boat with Steve came by and I told him I'd wait for the morning for a tow. He gave me the name of a local Yanmar dealer. At his suggestion a gave the starter a couple of hard raps in case the drive pinion gear had gotten stuck -- no effect. I called Ed Burke and he suggested trying to wiggle the engine in forward and reverse by hand. It moved (good, it wasn't seized up) but this had no effect on starter functioning.
  • In a total funk but being safely at anchor, I got out the scotch and soothed my psyche until the morning.